Ocean surface waves are surface waves at the surface of an ocean. That is, a wave that is guided along the interface between water and air. As the wind blows, pressure and friction forces associated with the wind perturb the equilibrium of the ocean surface. The wind actually transfers some of its energy into the water. The water is able to gain energy from the wind because of the friction between the wind and the water. This causes the surface particles to move in nearly circular motion, which is a combination of longitudinal (back and forth) and transverse (up and down) wave motions. The particle motion will appear to be clockwise when viewed such that the direction of wave propagation is to the right.
As the depth into the ocean increases, the radius of the circular motion decreases. At a depth equal to the wavelength the amplitude of the motion is only a few percent of the surface amplitude. Individual "freak waves" (also "rogue waves", "monster waves") sometimes occur in the ocean, often as high as 30 meters. Such waves are distinct from tides, caused by the moon and sun's pull, and tsunamis that are caused by underwater earthquakes or landslides.
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Last updated: 10-20-2005 22:56:39
